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Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden
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New Orleans City Park
Looking to embark on a road trip? Here’s a recap of one family’s recent adventure.
New Orleans
New Orleans definitely knows how to party, but there are plenty of activities for families to enjoy.
I recently visited with my wife, Carol, and daughters, Claire (11) and Shelby (13), and explored some of what the city has to offer. Here are some highlights from our trip.
Lodging
We stayed three nights at the Drury Inn & Suites, a great value for families located a short walk from New Orleans’ famous French Quarter. The room size was sufficient, and the beds comfortable. Amenities include a full breakfast, evening snacks, and three free alcoholic drinks in the evening, all included in the price of the room. The hotel is located conveniently near RTA streetcar lines, which offer inexpensive public transportation, and it’s not far from the Mississippi River Riverwalk. They also welcome dogs.
Activities
New Orleans City Park – The 1,300-acre park offers a variety of activities for families, including Storyland amusement park, New Orleans Botanical Garden, and miniature golf. We took the RTA trolley Canal Street Line there and spent much of our time at Storyland, a theme park with rides for kids. The park features images of storybook characters, but my children were most interested in the rides — ferris wheel, carousel, roller coasters, slide, and bumper cars.
New Orleans Museum of Art – Nearby Storyland is the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA), which has some neat art not only inside but also at the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden alongside the museum. NOMA’s three floors have a variety of art from many different cultures, as well as some big-name artists. When you visit, make sure to dine at the fabulous Café Noma. We enjoyed offerings from the delicious bistro bistro menu, which includes paninis, flatbreads, charcuterie plates, desserts (huge cookies!), and items for kids.
Hermann-Grima Historic House – This 6,000-square-foot property in the French Quarter was once the home of two prominent New Orleans families. Built in 1831, it gives a glimpse at the lives of the wealthy of the era. Tour its bedrooms, dining rooms, sitting rooms, kitchen, and courtyard. Your guide can answer all of your questions. If you have the time, tour its sister home, Gallier House, about a 10-minute walk away.
Dining
Ruby Slipper Café – This New Orleans favorite is the place to go for breakfast/brunch and lunch. It has the feel of a neighborhood café, and there are multiple locations in New Orleans. I had one of their benedicts, Eggs Blackstone, which features applewood-smoked bacon and grilled tomato on a buttermilk biscuit — they’re known for excellent biscuits — with two poached eggs and hollandaise. The cafe also serves wonderful French toast and pancake breakfasts, and, if you like an early drink, cocktails such as mimosas. We went to the 200 Magazine St. location. There’s typically a wait here, so make a reservation on Yelp before your arrival.
Napoleon House – Located in the French Quarter, this historic spot was built to house Napoleon Bonaparte in exile (although he never made it to the U.S.). Today, it’s a popular eatery featuring a delicious menu of sandwiches, po-boys, appetizers, and salads. We had the Italian muffuletta, their specialty, which has multiple meats and cheeses and is served warm. We also tried the fried shrimp po’ boy — although the grilled alligator sausage looked interesting! The restaurant features indoor and outdoor seating options.
Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant – Located conveniently near the French Quarter and across from the Riverwalk, Gordon Biersch is known for its home-brewed beers but also offers fine burgers (including a Kobe beef option), chicken, tacos, salmon, flatbreads, and a variety of starters. It’s competitively priced and has great service.
Side-Trip to Mobile
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Airboat Express
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USS Alabama
Mobile, Alabama, is an old Southern city with a colorful history. It’s just over a couple hours by car from New Orleans, so we took a side-trip there to enjoy the area’s sights.
Lodging
Homewood Suites is located off the I-65 freeway, a few miles from downtown Mobile. Clean and well maintained, Homewood features large suites and many amenities. A good breakfast is included, and there’s a pool and exercise room. Our room had a kitchen with a cooking area and refrigerator, and a separate living room with a sofa bed.
Attractions
Bellingrath Gardens and Home – Bellingrath is the former home of a wealthy Coca-Cola bottler, Walter Bellingrath, who died in 1955. Located on the Fowl River (a short drive out of Mobile), the 65-acre estate features beautiful gardens (with something always blooming!), fountains, and a conservatory. The highlight of the tour is a visit to the 15-room brick home, which looks out onto the river. The home appears as it did — including original furnishings — when the Bellingraths resided there. The surrounding area teems with wildlife. I took the Bayou Observatory Walk over a portion of the river and saw swimming turtles, large fish, and even a water snake. If you’re hungry, stop for sandwiches and snacks at its Magnolia Café. Bellingrath was one of my favorite stops on the trip; spend the whole day if you have the time.
Dauphin Island – A few minutes from Bellingrath, this long, narrow island with sandy beaches sits at the opening of Mobile Bay. Attractions include the Dauphin Island Estuarium, a public aquarium introducing visitors to the four key habitats of coastal Alabama. More than 100 species of sea animals are on display in aquaria themed to their habitat. The stingray (with stingers removed) petting tank is a highlight.
Fort Gaines – This Civil War-era fort is located on Dauphin Island alongside the Estuarium. It’s perhaps best known for its part in the Battle of Mobile Bay in 1864, when Admiral Farragut famously told his men, “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!” Walk the site and enjoy magnificent views of Mobile Bay and the Gulf. Enjoy the fort’s historic structures with original cannons, kitchens, tunnels, and museum. We watched a historical reenactor fire a cannon and the blacksmith at work.
Richards DAR House – This is another of Mobile’s historic homes, built in 1860. It’s operated by the Daughters of the American Revolution. Our tour guide went into great detail about the people who once lived there, its furnishings, and 19th century life in Mobile. We even heard some interesting ghost stories. Unlike other similar sites, they were open to us sitting on the furniture and allowed us take photos inside.
Airboat Express – The Mobile-Tensaw River Delta is rich in plant and sea life; take an airboat tour and see it firsthand. There are plenty of birds and plants, but I suspect what most people want to see are the alligators. We saw a dozen or more of varying sizes. The owners are a married couple, Brittany and Geoff, who are very accommodating to visitors and knowledgeable about the ecosystem.
USS Alabama – This retired warship was used to fight in both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans during World War II. It is now moored permanently in Mobile Bay. There are lots of ladders to climb to go below deck and then up to the bridge, but all is well-lit, and there is even air conditioning. It’s a great way to see how the crew once lived and carried out their duties. The many displays tell the stories of the men who took the ship to battle and the battles in which they participated. Military aircraft, a submarine, and the USS Drum can also be seen on the grounds. It was our good fortune to visit on a day many USS Alabama veterans returned to enjoy a mock battle with an attacking airplane. One elderly veteran was given the opportunity to fire the same deck gun he had used as a young man.
Restaurants
Moe’s Original Bar B Que – We went to the downtown Mobile location and enjoyed a great dinner. The menu features sandwiches — we tried the pulled pork, smoked sausage, and smoked turkey — a variety of platters, and some delicious sides. They have craft beers on tap, and live music on the weekends.
The Original Oyster House – This seafood lover’s paradise is located alongside the Airboat Express dock. It features magnificent views of the Mobile-Tensaw River Delta and delicious seafood, including oysters and a variety of shrimp dishes. Other favorites include seafood po’ boys and platters and Southern sides (try the cheese grits!). Great atmosphere, great service, great view, and very popular — don’t be surprised if you have to wait for a table!
These are just a few of the many stops you can make in these two wonderful cities. My family thoroughly enjoyed exploring New Orleans and Mobile. We’ll be back soon!
For more information or to plan your trip, visit neworleans.com or mobile.org.
Jim Graves is a family travel writer. His work has appeared in such publications as Birmingham Parent, LA Parent, New York Parenting, Pittsburgh Parent, and Utah Family.